First I stripped , cleaned and powder coated the cases and assembled with new bearings, seals and crank.
As seen below I am getting ready to install the new connecting rod with new needle bearings.
I use grease to hold them in place and to give it that added lubrication on start up.
Now I am ready to install the new piston and rings.
Below you can see a handy tool I made from a plastic wood clamp to push the wrist pin out.
Don't forget to check your new rings for the proper gap on the freshly re-plated cylinder.
Below you can also see I opened up the ports a little with a grinder before I had it replated.
I also decked the cylinder to make a good gasket seal and to give it a little more compression.
OK with that done I go back to the paint booth and prepare the rest
of the red parts for powder coating
by bead blasting them and cleaning them with soap and water. If you
have an old dish washer that works
good also, or you can wait until the wife is gone and use the dish
washer in the house.
Any time I powder coat a pours metal I also heat them up to 400 degrease
Fahrenheit
for about 10 minutes before I wash them to bake out all the oil.
Below I am applying the red powder and then they are baked in
the oven you see to the right for 15 minutes at 400 degrease.
With all the red parts painted I can start to put it together with
the original screws that I zinc plated and then it starts to look like
a saw.
You can see it has a new starting cup and a bumper spike, I re-plated
the screen that goes over the flywheel.
Below I am preparing to put the fuel tank together using JB weld for
a strong fuel proof seal.
do not try and used JB quick because it dries before you can get all
the screws in.
I bead blasted all of the screws and blackened them with black oxide.
OK here is the hard part. I got the first one out of skew and had to
strip it down to the bare metal and start over.
I will use this starter cover as an example of how I paint the logos,
but the tank, bar and sprocket cover are done the same.
After laying down an epoxy primer and a good base coat like Deltron
2000 I cut a stencil out of vinyl decal
with a plotter and paint each color separate. First I paint the white
Homelite with the flag below.
after the paint dries I apply the "C 9" with the vinyl template and
remove the overlay that keeps it aligned.
When applying the base coat paint, make sure to spray it on very dry
by just misting it on with several thin coats.
After all the logos have been painted on it is time to clear coat them
so they are fuel proof. I used a
acrylic urethane with hardener so it will have a strong glossy finish
that is 10 times better than what Homelite used,
but it is very expensive to paint a saw like this.
I re-surface the bar with the round part of a belt sander (make sure
to keep it moving briskly in one direction)
Below I mask off the the nose of the bar and get ready to apply the
stencil for painting the logo on the bar.
But the end result is worth it.
